Monday

Thrid Quarter Project

Fashion of the 1920s and How Coco Chanel Influenced It




After the end of World War I American history came to a major turning point. Many of the changes made after WWI affected the lives of women. After the war ended women got the right to vote, entered the workforce in record number, etc. During this period after the war social customs and morals were relaxed, and as a result there was a revolution in every aspect of Americans’ lives.

One thing that changed drastically in the “roaring 20s” was women’s fashion. Clothing changed with the changing roles of women in society. Most of the older women in the society continued to wear long dresses and kept their conservative look. The younger women in the society caused sportswear to be the greatest change in post war fashion. The biggest part of this change in fashion was the disregarding of the restricting corset.

In the 1920s female clothes became looser and more shapeless in fit. The bust was suppressed, the waist disappeared, the shoulders became broader and hair was worn shorter and shorter. Narrow boyish hips were preferred. This desired silhouette caused womanly curves to be eliminated. A tanned body and face of a 15 year old became the desired look of the bright young women of the 1920s. Health and beauty clubs helped women refine their silhouettes while they also got fitter and healthier.

Flappers were the iconoclast of fashion in the 1920s. Flappers did not truly emerge until 1926. Flapper fashion embraced all things and styles modern. Flappers wore short, shapeless shift dresses that exposed limbs unlike any dresses worn before. They wore makeup and wore their hair in a short, sleek bob, which was uncommon since in those days it was more common for women to keep their hair long.

Flappers also wore cloche hats in the 20s. Cloche hats told people that you had stylish, short hair. These hats fit extremely snug to the head. It was only possible to wear a cloche hat if you had short, flat hair. The cloche hat was worn pulled down over the eyes so that none of the forehead was visible.

There were many designers that greatly contributed to the change of fashion in the 1920s, but the woman with the greatest influence on fashion was Coco Chanel. She was born in 1883 in Saumur as Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel. Her mother died when she was only 6 years old and her father abandoned her and her 4 siblings. She grew up in a French orphanage. She took on the name, Coco, when she was a café singer in the years 1905-1908.

In 1912 Coco was helped out financially by a wealthy aristocrat, named Arthur Capel. He supplied funds for her first shop front, which opened in 1913. It was a milliner (hat shop). However, it wasn't until the 1920s that she really got the ball rolling. It was during a time of distress (the Great Depression) that Chanel opened her now historically famous shop at 31 rue Cambon. A few years later, around the mid 20s, Chanel's designs became more popular and word of her designs and stores were spreading to those who could afford it.

Chanel also incorporated ideas from male wardrobe into her designs. The idea of "defeminizing" womens' clothing during that time period was greatly desired. This is because women wanted to be seen as equals to the men. This also allowed women to participate in spots and outdoor activities. Coco Chanel was credited with creating the fabric, jersey. She made many of her dresses out of jersey because it is light and easy to move in. She also created haut couture, today what we call high fashion. I am convinced that without her influence on fashion, things would not be nearly the same in the fashion industry today.

The fashion revolution that occurred in the 1920s could be the greatest ever in history. It is said to be the first time in history that the older women in the society began to imitate the styles being worn by the younger generations. These changes in fashion in the 20s changed fashion forever. The designs sold by Coco Chanel are those that define the fashion of the 20s. Not only does the brand that Chanel created so long ago still exist, but the fashions she created in the 20s inspire many of the things we see being worn on the red carpet today.